The Vienna of Slovenia

Ljubljana, the capital city of Slovenia, has an identity crisis. First of all, it’s almost unpronounceable (Loob-YA-na is as close as most of us will get). Add to that the fact that most new arrivals tend to expect a city that’s a bit rough around the edges, given that it’s been only 20 years since Slovenia gained independence from the former Yugoslavia.
What a surprise to find a clean, modern, youthful city that I’d describe as Vienna with a dollop of Amsterdam, thanks to its beautifully preserved Baroque and Art Nouveau buildings and the river that runs through the heart of the city and has spawned a vibrant cafe culture along both its banks.
Its local attractions would rival those of many larger European centres, but it’s more laid back and far less expensive than Paris, Vienna or Prague. Maybe it’s a good thing that most people can’t pronounce it; if they could, it might not be the largely undiscovered little gem of a city it is.

Five things I learned at TBEX ’11

Here’s what I learned from TBEX ’11, the annual Travel Blog Exchange conference held this weekend at the Vancouver Convention Centre:

1.  Judging from the hundreds of shiny young bloggers in attendance, a lot of people must think they can make a lot of money blogging about travel.

2. You’ll never make any money blogging about travel. Or, to be more accurate, you have a snowball’s chance in hell of being paid good money to blog. I’ll bet only a handful of TBEX attendees — other than the uber-successful ones invited to speak — will ever get a paid blogging gig, and even if they do, most will find themselves making barista bucks.

3. Even though your blog won’t make you any money, it may lead to opportunities for paid writing assignments in — drumroll, please — traditional media like newspapers, magazines and guidebooks. Which is where most professional travel writers are already earning their keep. Blogs are primarily marketing vehicles, not sources of income.

4. You need to find a niche and focus on it to draw an audience and, if you’re really, really lucky, someone who believes you’re an expert in what you’re writing about will offer you a paid assignment elsewhere as a result. But don’t hold your breath, because if there’s a niche, there is probably already a blogger filling it, and to the early adopters, the spoils.

5. Your travel blog is a good place to blow off a bit of steam about a conference you found more than a bit disappointing for its content, organization and opportunities to learn something you didn’t already know (see above). Which won’t make you any money, but it’s something.

 

New life for the old Hotel Georgia

I was thrilled to get a sneak peek at the new Rosewood Hotel Georgia before it opens its doors this summer, courtesy of a hard-hat tour arranged by Annabel Hawskworth and Marisa Marsden of Hawksworth Communications. If you’re a Vancouverite, that name is bound to sound familiar, and for good reason — Annabel’s husband is local celebrity chef David Hawskworth, whose self-named restaurant is due to open soon on the hotel’s ground floor. I can’t wait to eat there, because even with scaffolds and painters and construction debris, it looks like it’s going to be a spectacular setting.

Ditto for the rooms, many of which are still under construction, but a few of which have been dressed to impress for early visitors like me. I loved their classic lines and cosy feel, and what can you say about the black-marble bathrooms but draw me a bath and leave me alone, please.

It’s a long-awaited and impressive rebirth for what was a few years ago a rather shabby grande dame. Well done.

Getting real in Florida

To be honest, Florida is not my favourite place. Even temperatures in the high 20s and almost constant sunshine in March isn’t enough to make me want to come here every winter, as I know many people do. I’d make a lousy snowbird.

But even I must admit that Naples is one of its nicer spots in the Sunshine State. Sure, it’s got its share of giant malls and big-box stores — and if you think I passed up an opportunity to shop at Target and Marshall’s, you don’t know me very well — but it also has a quaint (if somewhat pricey) old town and a bustling (if also somewhat pricey) strip on Fifth Avenue South that has lots of nice restaurants and cafes with sidewalk patios, as well as some pleasant shops.

But my favourite part of Naples was the pier at its municipal beach, which was buzzing with activity. I’m not big on sitting on the beach listening to my skin sizzle or frolicking in the ocean with a lot of shrieking kids, but I did enjoy strolling along the pier to see the local Napolitanos fish for their dinner — and watching the pelicans and other birds try to snatch their catch from the end of their line as they hauled it in.

It seemed a lot more real to me than many other things I’ve seen in Florida, so I was glad I didn’t miss it. And you should see the great T-shirts I bought for $8 apiece at Target.

Deluxe digs on the Sunshine Coast

After living in a 400-square-foot apartment in Hong Kong, my 1,400-square-foot suite at the Painted Boat Resort and Spa seemed positively palatial. I didn’t know quite what to do with all that space, but it was certainly a perk to have a full kitchen and dining room, plus two spacious bedrooms, to kick around in. The view of the marina at Garden Bay from the living room was also a huge bonus. I’d be quite content to stay for a week or even a month, which is more than I can say for most hotel rooms.

I was there for a short time but a good time, which meant that I had to tear myself away from my suite to enjoy a wonderful dinner at The Restaurant at Painted Boat, as well as a truly indulgent massage at the resort’s spectacular spa. I just wish that I had arrived early enough to luxuriate in the outdoor jetted spa before my massage, because afterwards I had no desire to wash off the fragrant oil that my masseuse had just spent an hour kneading into my skin.

That’s okay. I’ll remember to arrive early next time.

Black rocks and bright sunshine

I expected to usher in the New Year with storm clouds and a roiling ocean at Black Rock Resort in Ucluelet, a prime storm-watching spot on the wild west coast of Vancouver Island. But life doesn’t always turn out like you planned. Instead of rain and stormy seas, I got calm waters and bright sunshine — hardly something to complain about.

With its contemporary decor and comfortable suites — I was particularly fond of the free-standing tub that let you lounge in bubbles while enjoying a view of the forest and ocean — the two-year-old resort is splendid in its own right, but its setting is truly spectacular. A window table in the resort’s Fetch restaurant offers an ever-changing view of waves washing up on the rocky shore. Even when the ocean is calm, it’s hard to take your eyes off it long enough to focus on the food, which definitely merits attention.

On the Wild Pacific Trail, which wraps around the resort, breathing in the clean, crisp air and listening to the tide crash against the rocks offered the perfect embodiment of the New Year’s mantra — out with the old, in with the new.

How to fly like Superman

All my life, I’ve had dreams about flying, and I’ve always wanted to get my pilot’s licence. At this point in my life, I’m pretty doubtful that I’ll be flying 767s anytime soon, but the other day, I did get the chance to fly like I have in my dreams.

At the newly opened Fly Zone Bodyflight in Delta, B.C., you don’t need a plane, a pilot or a boarding pass to get airborne. All you have to do is put on a jumpsuit, a helmet and goggles and lie down on the floor of their vertical wind tunnel, in the aerodynamically approved Superman position with hands stretched out in front of you, and get ready for takeoff. When my instructor Shane gave the thumbs-up sign, a giant fan below me literally blew me away.

I learned there’s a reason Superman has all those muscles — it’s not as easy as you’d think to resist getting buffeted around like a tumbleweed. Shane helped me stay in position, but after two minutes, I was ready to get on solid ground and give my arms a rest. And you don’t look too glamorous when you’re being blown around in a wind tunnel either. But even so, it was a blast.